I have been on an Afternoon Tea odyssey for years. There is something genteel and charming about the formality of it all. Tea cups with roses. Tiny sandwiches. Tiers of miniature sweets. We accepted a gracious invitation to enjoy Afternoon Tea at the Driskill Hotel, Austin’s classic Grand Dame located downtown on Brazos and 6th. The historic building opened in 1866 as a luxury hotel to accommodate businessmen and politicians visiting the new Texas State Capitol building. Afternoon Tea has been a tradition here ever since.
I’ve indulged in quite a few afternoon teas in my lifetime, but the bar was raised at the Driskill. Tea is served in the hotel’s 1886 Café, a French-style bakery and bistro open for breakfast and lunch, then flipped into a formal tea space with white linen tablecloths, flower centerpieces, and elegant china. Tea is served Saturday and Sunday beginning at 4pm, so advance reservations are necessary. As we were seated, the host offered us champagne while the room began filling up with families, bridal parties and other couples admiring the beautiful set-up of the space.
The savories and sweets came out in two different courses, beginning with finger sandwiches, scones, and fresh fruit. I marveled at how artfully each tier was presented. What I found particularly striking was the chef’s thoughtful, modern riff on traditional cucumber, egg, and beef sandwiches. Anyone who knows me, knows my weakness for fish roe. A little pumpernickel bite was topped with egg salad and a spoonful of salmon roe which brought texture and saltiness to the bite. Miniature puff pastry shells were filled with delicious smoked salmon topped with just enough dill cream as not to overpower. The tasty roast beef topped with horseradish cream and a pickle on brown bread was reminiscent of all the classic British tea bites I’ve had with some sort of dark bread. The pop of pink meat against the brown bread was as visually enticing as it was delicious.
We savored the savories for quite some time. As much as we enjoyed the finger sandwiches, the orange cranberry scones were the stand-out – made even tastier with Devon cream, fruit preserves, and superb homemade lemon curd. The tiers were beautifully composed with berries and edible flowers tucked among the sandwiches. Overall, a gorgeous presentation.
Tea service was poured in three courses. The Driskill sources sustainably-grown varieties from local Zhi Teas. We began with Iron Goddess of Mercy a honey amber oolong with earthy, plum notes. The second to be served was Austin Breakfast, a bold Ceylon black tea, which was my favorite. The final pour was a smooth, aromatic decaffeinated tea, Texas Sweet Dreams, which paired beautifully with the dessert tier.
Then came the sweets! Another triple decker tray laden with four types of desserts arrived to our googly-eyed amazement: a layered red and pink strawberry shortcake, charming mini lemon-lavender Madelines, various flavored macarons, and an unexpected green tea matcha shortbread cookie that we both liked a lot. We only shared one of each dessert after filling up on the previous tastes, tea, and champagne. Each bites were just sweet enough, and thoroughly enjoyed. We finished off the extras with coffee in our room the next morning. No dessert left behind!
Afternoon Tea at the Driskill Hotel was one of my favorite moments while visiting Austin. The service was impeccable and friendly. The atmosphere was sophisticated yet approachable. We savored this afternoon tea for all of its experiential worth. It is one that will linger for a long time. These are the types of experiences that, in my opinion, make travel extra special. Next time you are in Austin, I would highly recommend treating yourself!
BONUS: A Brief History of Afternoon Tea
While living and working in England for a few years, friends and I sat sipping darjeeling with pinky’s out at the Savoy – but were quickly corrected as to how to properly hold the teacup. We drove the Fortnum & Mason’s “tea sommelier” bonkers with our indecision over their extraordinary endless options. We swooned for sweets at Claridge’s, which carries on a 150-year tradition of tea service. It was when a friend invited me for “tea” with her Yorkshire family that I was thrown for a loop – that was when I learned “tea” is an umbrella term used by the British for various meals. In this case, “tea” actually meant “dinner.” Count me in!
Afternoon tea is not to be confused with high tea (dinner) or a tea break (drink and snack). In a nutshell, this late afternoon meal became a daily ritual among the upper class in 1840’s England. Queen Victoria’s Lady of the Bedchamber started the custom of taking sandwiches and tea in her room because she would become cranky between meals. Nobody wants a hangry Duchess! The tradition evolved as other famished aristocratic ladies followed suit. An array of savory sandwiches, scones, mini-pastries, and tea were formally served between 4 and 6pm. Rest assured, no lady was going hungry between lunch and supper. The privileged class referred to this ritualistic meal as “afternoon tea,” while their evening meal was referred to as dinner. Amongst the working and lower class, lunch was called dinner and dinner was called tea. Safe to say, in no matter which social strata one belongs, food will be involved if invited for tea. The custom of Afternoon Tea inevitably found its way into American culture during the colonial settlement, particularly via Boston and east coast cities.
